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Cruising guide to the Mediterranean

A guide to sailing the Mediterranean

The Mediterranean is an extremely popular cruising ground. European sailors and full-time cruisers flock to the warm waters of this enclosed sea every summer. Super yachts cross the Atlantic Ocean in the spring to join in on the fun. 

For this reason, the anchorages and marinas can get crowded in the peak months of July and August, especially those near tourist hotspots. After all, the Mediterranean has lots to offer – fantastic historical sites, delicious cuisines, a vibrant nightlife, and more.

Discover all you need to know on how to sail the Mediterranean in this guide.

Introduction

A little history

The Mediterranean region has historical roots that go back to about 130,000 years BC. The region has been the stage of hundreds of wars and invasions, and home to various empires and reigns through the centuries. Even today the region is inhabited by a variety of people, all linked by their common history. 

The Mediterranean Sea has been fundamental for the transport, trade, and cultural exchange between Western Asia, North Africa, and Southern Europe. Pirates have plagued these waters for centuries. However, ever since Augustus founded the Roman Empire, this speck of water has been called “Mare nostrum” (our sea). With the Empire guarding the coasts of the Mediterranean, commerce could develop.

In the 19th century, European states started colonising North Africa. Then, the Ottoman empire collapsed during the First World War and its territories were divided between various European states.

Later on, the region was the stage of World War II and the Cold War. Today, the Mediterranean Sea is the southern border of the European Union and is one of the largest trading areas in the world. Unfortunately, its sometimes dangerous waters are also responsible for the deaths of hundreds of migrants coming from North Africa every year.

An overview of the Mediterranean as a sailing ground

Reaching the Mediterranean by sailboat can be challenging, depending on where you set off from. Europeans who aren’t in the basin yet will either need to sail the very tidal Atlantic Coast of Europe,. This includes crossing the infamous Bay of Biscay, or motoring through the French Canals. Good navigation skills and careful passage planning will keep the crew safe. Americans and Canadians will need to cross the Atlantic Ocean from west to east, which is an engaging ocean crossing. However, many cruisers, such as Australians, opt to fly to Greece or Croatia and buy a boat there before setting off to sail home.

While it may seem like a lot of work, reaching the Mediterranean by sailboat is a magical experience. The climate changes drastically, compared to that encountered on the Atlantic. Plus, the charming coastal towns will welcome you with delicious-smelling food and a cheap cold beer, or affordable wine.

Climate

Sailing conditions

Sailing without using your engine in the Mediterranean can be tricky, as there are many factors to consider. Any passage that lasts more than 10 to 12 hours will likely feature wind from different directions and varying speeds. For this reason, you’ll need to keep a very close eye on the weather and trace your route based on the wind direction. The good news is that the currents affecting this basin are few and most aren’t strong. If you’re only travelling a few nautical miles, you can often take advantage of the afternoon sea breeze, which affects some areas, such as the Balearics and the Ionian Islands.

You’ll need to learn the different Mediterranean winds – the levanter, mistral, meltemi, scirocco, and the bora. Based on your location, the prevailing wind and its behaviour will change. Therefore, you  will likely need to adjust passage tactics as you move from west to east and east to west.

While sailors will generally struggle to catch enough wind to sail far in the summer, the wind can blow quite strong in the shoulder seasons and in the winter. Storms often record winds above 50 knots, with some blowing over 70 knots. In the past few years, a rare phenomenon, the Medicane, has started manifesting in the early autumn. This is a tropical storm-like revolving cyclone, that can see winds reach category 1 hurricane strength. The effects are devastating: harbour walls have collapsed in Italy and boats have sunk in Greece in the past few years. Torrential rains and flash floods can also happen.

Anchorages

Contrary to popular belief, it is still free to anchor in most of the Mediterranean basin. Some very popular areas, which see a huge number of tourists every year drop their hook, have established mooring fields in order to protect the seabed. If you don’t wish to pay for a mooring, just skip these. You’ll find them on the sailing apps and guide books.

Anchorages in the Med can be great, or bad. It all depends on when you are there, as the wind can blow from almost any direction, at any time of year. This sometimes means changing anchorage at a particular time of day, or uncomfortably waiting the wind change out. Swell from a far off storm can also reach you on a calm day, making a safe anchorage untenable. 

360-degree-protected anchorages are rare, but they do exist. Vliho Bay in Lefkas is a great example. However, if you wish to visit many different anchorages, you will need to plan your stays carefully, and always be ready to move.

Anchorages aren’t particularly shallow in most places, but they can get deep in certain areas. With the chance of big blows coming any time of the year, it’s best to invest in a decent anchor and a long length of chain.

Navigation

Navigation is uncomplicated in the Med, thanks to the near-absence of tides and the mild currents that affect the basin. There are a few shoals, channels and straits, but these are well buoyed and finding relevant information is easy. The real challenge is the wind, which, as mentioned above, can change direction multiple times a day.

The water circulation in the Med consists of two separate counterclockwise movements of the water in the two basins (western and eastern). Due to the geography of the land, there are many local currents that contribute to the circulation. 

The currents you truly need to worry about are well known, such as the Strait of Gibraltar and the Messina Strait. Most of the water that flows into the Med comes from the inflow from the Atlantic Ocean, and much of its waters evaporate, especially in the summer heat. The Atlantic inflow flows eastward along the north coast of Africa. The resulting current is most powerful in the summer. As the current moves eastward, it loses much of its strength. This is why you need to time your entry and exit from Gibraltar well. It is also recommended to keep north of the current’s mainstream as you approach the area, in order to make a better speed.

Boat facilities

There are a myriad of boat facilities in the Med – boat yards, marinas, mooring fields, and town quays. Prices can be high, especially in the high season and in popular spots. For this reason, many cruisers opt to anchor out from April to September and then buy a winter deal in a marina. 

Boat yard prices in the Western and Central Med tend to be higher than in Atlantic Europe. Many budget cruisers opt for sailing to Portugal or Almerimar at the end of the season to carry out their boat work. Reasonable prices can be found in Greece and Turkey. It’s always best to check if the yard you are choosing allows the owner to work on their vessel DIY, as some places don’t.

You’ll find chandleries in most medium-sized towns, while you can order parts online to almost any marina. Some more remote villages will have some delivery issues, so it’s always best to plan a long stay somewhere well-connected.

Boat repairs and services can be found in bigger towns, often all settled in the same area, near a big marina. These include:

  • diesel mechanics,
  • sailmakers, canvas work and upholstery,
  • electrical and electronic services,
  • welding and stainless steel fabrication,
  • shipwrights and carpenters,
  • hull and gelcoat repair,
  • riggers,
  • outboard servicing and repair,
  • dinghy repair and life raft servicing,
  • yacht surveyors,
  • watermaker repairs and installations,
  • refrigeration and AC engineers,
  • hull painting and brightwork specialists.

Immigration: The Schengen dance

If you aren’t an EU citizen, you will need to check in and out of various countries, in order to cruise the Mediterranean. The good news is that some EU countries have joined the Shengen Area, which allows travellers to move freely between various states with one single VISA.

Here’s the countries which are part of the Shengen area:

  • Austria,
  • Belgium,
  • Czech Republic,
  • Denmark,
  • Estonia,
  • Finland,
  • France,
  • Germany,
  • Gibraltar,
  • Greece,
  • Hungary,
  • Iceland,
  • Italy,
  • Latvia,
  • Liechtenstein,
  • Lithuania,
  • Luxembourg,
  • Malta,
  • the Netherlands,
  • Norway,
  • Poland,
  • Portugal,
  • Slovakia,
  • Slovenia,
  • Spain,
  • Sweden,
  • Switzerland.

Most people can request a short-stay VISA, valid for any country in the Shengen Area. This VISA allows you to travel freely in the 27 member states for up to 90 non-continuous days in any 180-day period. The process to obtain the VISA has become a little easier and smoother since 2020. You need to apply at the Embassy or Consulate of the country where your first port of call is located. This can be done online.

Once you have stayed for 90 days in the Shengen area, you need to leave.

Non-shengen countries:

  • United Kingdom (but not Gibraltar)
  • Ireland
  • Croatia
  • Cyprus
  • Turkey
  • Tunisia
  • Morocco
  • Albania
  • Bosnia
  • Herzegovina
  • Macedonia
  • Montenegro
  • Serbia

You will need to apply for a separate VISA when you reach these nations. So, you can still cruise the Med by spending some time in the countries from the list above each year. This is called “the Shengen dance” and requires a little planning. Croatia, Turkey, Morocco, and Tunisia are amongst the most popular countries to “escape to”. However, cruisers have reported problems when arriving into Greece from Turkey. This is due to the historical tension between the two countries.

You can find more information on immigration processes in the Med here.

Attractions

There is a wealth of attractions in the Mediterranean – from the delicious fresh food and the charming old towns, to the fun nightlife and the calm clear waters. A great restaurant or fancy bar is never too far away.

Eating out can be cheap. Just use Tripadvisor to find a local gem, or venture a couple of streets behind the local promenade. To experience an authentic local meal, skip places with photos on their menu and follow some locals into their favourite joint. This is an excellent way to blend in and learn more about the local culture.

Ultra fancy eateries on the beach and in the middle of town centres tend to be tourist traps with a big final bill. However, there are some great exceptions to this rule, particularly in Greece. Make sure to check the menu before you sit down.

The cultural attractions are almost infinite, especially if you take the time to hire a car and explore further inland. You’ll be able to visit churches, ancient ruins and castles, as well as temples and world-famous museums. 

The hiking can be great, too. Some national parks are located near the coast, while others require a means of transport to reach them.

Highlights

The highlights of cruising the Mediterranean are the cultural experiences you can enjoy, the delicious food, and the breath-taking views. The sea is often calm, ideal for anyone who loves to SUP or kayak.

The winter weather can be great in some areas. For example on the coast of Spain, the air is warm and the sun is always out. While the summer can get a little hectic, the shoulder seasons offer some of the best sailing you can do in the area, as long as you keep a close eye on the weather.

Downsides

As with any place in the world, there are some downsides to sailing this region. The weather unpredictability can be stressful at times, or inconvenient. It’s near impossible to make plans, as you often need to move at the last minute, based on the latest forecast.

The summer crowds often lead to anchorages being very busy, with boats anchoring a little too close for comfort. This requires nerves of steel, or the skill of being ready to move anchorage fast. Alternatively, you can head to a marina; although these tend to be crowded and expensive. 

The summer can be too hot for some people. With no wind, it’s hard to cool down. However, the sea is often calm, so you can always jump in for a dip.

The area near the Strait of Gibraltar sees an influx of migrant boats heading from Africa to Europe year-round. When sailing in this area, listen to the VHF carefully, as there is almost always a vessel in distress.

Resources

For further reading, check out these books:

  • Mediterranean sailing by Rod Heikell
  • Mediterranean Almanac by Rod and Lucinda Heikell
  • Mediterranean cruising handbook by Rod and Lucinda Heikell
  • World cruising routes by Jimmy Cornell
  • Adriatic pilot by T & D Thompson
  • Corsica and North Sardinia by RCCPF and Medeleine and Stephan Strobel
  • Imray pocket pilot: The Carian coast, Turkey by Lucinda Heikell
  • Cruising Bulgaria and Romania by Nicky Allardice
  • East Aegean by Rod Heikell
  • Greek waters pilots by Rod and Lucinda Heikell
  • Harbour guide Croatia, Montenegro and Slovenia by E Glaumann, J Hermansson, and P Hotvedt
  • Imray pocket pilot: The south of France by Lucinda Heikell
  • Ionian by Rod and Lucinda Heikell
  • Islas Baleares by RCCPF and David and Susie Baggaley
  • Italian waters pilot by Rod and Lucinda Heikell
  • Imray pocket pilot: The Ionian by Lucinda Heikell
  • Mediterranean France and Corsica pilot by Rod and Lucinda Heikell
  • Mediterranean Spain by RCC and Steve Pickard
  • North Africa by RCCPF and Grahama Hutt
  • The Black Sea by RCCPF and Barker and Borre
  • Turkish waters and Cyprus pilot by Rod and Lucinda Heikell
  • West Aegean by Rod and Lucinda Heikell
  • Eastern Adriatic by by P Magnabosco & D Silvestro
  • Sicily and Malta pilot book by Edizioni Magnamare
  • Cruise Ukraine by Doreen and Archie Annan
  • Adriatic sea pilot vol 1 and 2 by the Croatian Hydrographic Office
  • Turkey cruising companion by Emma Watson

It’s also worth checking out these free additional resources:

Paper charts for the region are available here:

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